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Settling South Georgia

The sailing ship Tijuca and a whaleboat. On the flensing plan, whales are ready for processing. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.

Larsen’s whaling gamble paid off. From 1906, chemical breakthroughs in hydrogenation, a process that turns liquid fats into solids, meant that the higher grades of whale oil could now be used to produce margarine and soap. Whale oil was traditionally used for low-level heating and lighting but this new multi-purpose raw material re-centred whale oil as a product of the modern world.

Larsen’s model was soon copied by several other companies. South Georgia became permanently settled by hundreds of whalers who were regularly supplied from Buenos Aires and Norway.

During his time as the first manager of the Grytviken whaling station, Larsen made South Georgia his home. He brought his family down from Norway and established a whaling dynasty. Larsen created a town, complete with a church, library and shop marking a significant turning point in human engagement with the Antarctic at the beginning of the 19th Century.

Captain Larsen inspects a sperm whale on the flensing plan, Grytviken 1911

Captain Larsen inspects a sperm whale on the flensing plan, Grytviken 1911. The oil from sperm whales is inedible and was used as a special lubricant for machinery and watches. The spermaceti found in the head was for making church candles. In the foreground, next to the St Bernard dog, is Victor Esbensen, Laren’s son-in-law and daughter, Hjørdis. On the right is Captain Larsen speaking to one of his secretaries (holding Magistrate Binnie’s camera box). Source: Thomas Edward Binnie Jr.

CAP shareholder stamps. Whaling operations saw immediate success with 55,000 barrels of oil being produced in 1910-1911 season. Such huge profits were made that the 1911 dividend to shareholders was 50%. Source: South Georgia Museum. 2011.35

The small township of Grytviken whaling station

The factory complex sits in the centre of the photograph, the workers' barracks to the right and the large villa below. 1911. Source: Nasjonalbiblioteket, Oslo.

Pigs and pigsitter in Grytviken. Source: Eva Marie Widemark Archive.

Grytviken, Compañia town

At this time, Grytviken was the size of a small town with at least 20 buildings, including accommodation, washing facilities, pig and hen houses, an assembly room, and a slop chest where the some 150 workers could purchase necessities like tobacco, gloves and soap. The company also built a hospital and hired a doctor, Staal Olaf Eggen, in 1907.

During this time plans were made to install a new hydroelectric dam by a waterfall east of the station. The dam became fully operational in early 1914 and the resulting lake was named Gull Lake. The hydroelectric plant powered the factory lights and later provided electricity for King Edward Point as well.

View of Grytviken whaling station looking out over King Edward Cove

The Cachalote on the left and the bark Louise on the right. 1911. Source: Nasjonalbiblioteket, Oslo.

Larsen and workers on the wooden flensing plan chopping blubber. Source: Eva Marie Widemark Archive.

Larsen advocated for better pay for the workers but had little luck

He turned his attention to what Grytviken could offer the whalers outside of work. Early on at Grytviken, the workers worked long hours and had little spare time. Any spare time they did have could often be spent with chores like caring for the animals, gathering penguin eggs and maintaining buildings. At times, workers could gather for entertainment in the workers’ assembly room, also known as forsamlingssalen or teatersalen. Here they could put on plays for each other using costumes purchased for this purpose. On rare occasions, theatre troupes were sailed in to entertain the whalers. As the population in Grytviken grew, the workers got more spare time.

Reindeer in South Georgia. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.

Larsen released a flock of reindeer in 1911 hoping to get more variation to his and the workers’ diets. This also meant that the workers could enjoy the occasional hunting excursion. Some workers spent time reading or learning new languages from books in the station library. They also spent time practising various crafts often using waste from the whaling like eyes and bones.

Workers' accommodation building (brakke)

Source: Nasjonalbiblioteket, Oslo.

Church fabrication in Norway. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.

The arrival of Pastor Løken

To enrich the workers’ free time, Larsen decided to advertise for a priest and lecturer and to start raising money to build a church in Grytviken. He thought it ‘very desirable that something ought to be done for our crew, as it is a lot to expect to get good people to live for year after year down here in such a desolate place away from civilisation without anything good and useful to divert their minds.’

The search resulted in the hiring of Kristen Løken who arrived in Grytviken in 1912. The collection of funds for the church proved difficult and Larsen eventually provided the bulk of the money himself. The church was designed by architect Adalbert Kielland and prefabricated at Strømmen Traevarefabrik in Norway.

Church construction in Grytviken. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.

The church was transported aboard Ocean from Larvik to South Georgia where it was erected by whalers and others in 29 days. The two bells, cast in Tønsberg by Olsen Nauen, was first rung on Christmas Eve 1913 by Magnus Abrahamsen. On Christmas Day the Church was consecrated by Pastor Kristen Løken assisted by Julius Løkke as Sexton. Whalers from all stations on South Georgia attended.

Paster Løken admitted that “religious life among the whalers left much to be desired”. The position of pastor was filled only intermittently until 1931 and then left vacant.

The church spire under construction. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.
The church in Grytviken decorated for Christmas with various flags. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.

Letter from Pastor Løken, April 1912

“16/4. From “Cumberland Bay” we went towards Grytviken. The weather was grey and pouring rain when we arrived; but we could still just see the tall mountains that tower steeply over the little island on which the station lies. From the mountain side the winter came in hard gusts across the bay. On the beach lay half rotten whale carcasses and on the flensing plan lay two big whales that had just been stripped. Whale guts lay swimming in the water which was coloured red from whale blood furthest into the bay. The smell of whale drifted towards us and was particularly recognisable when the wind carried it straight to us. – This was to be our place of residence, then. Indeed, in looked grim but not as bad as I had imagined. The place had the thrill of something new and it is not without a considerable interested excitement that we approach it and go ashore. The old secretary Vold meets us on the warf and takes us to “The Palace” (where “the King” and “the Queen” live), that is manager C A Larsen’s house. It is a one-storey house with dormer rooms about the same as a small Norwegian farm house. In the front room, the lady of the house graciously receives us and bid us welcome. She is a very gracious and educated lady. We are led into a pleasantly furnished living room where a new and good piano even shines in one corner. Here, we are presented to the family and “the palace’s” other members in turn. First the manager’s daughter, a young about 19-year old lady who has been down here for four months’ time and maybe will stay for longer, certainly until the lady of the house travels home. She plays piano exceptionally well and entertains us with music in the evening and serves as organist in the community centre, where there’s a good organ. – Then the manager himself, a man between 50 and 60, bursting with energy and power, fully occupied with business and of eager, busy temperament chatty and joking as a true old school sailor. – “So this is the new priest then! You should really have gotten abuse as soon as you got here; but welcome anyway!” – and with that a strong, honest sailor’s handshake. – That was the welcome I got. With that I was familiar with the members of the family. – Then it was time for the others, doctor Michelet, a nice, conscientious and pleasant man in his 50s, – also talkative and full of stories, when he’s in a good mood which he commonly is. Thereafter Mr. Wilson, the English magistrate, a typical Englishman with English education and good knowledge of everything English but with little or no knowledge of languages other than English. Despite being here a couple of years he knows basically no Norwegian. It is, however, entertaining to discuss various questions with him. By doing so I can also keep up with my English. Then there are also various foremen and managers of the cookeries. They also eat at Larsens table. Several of them are men with knowledge of many things, nice to talk to.

 

As you will understand it is everything but quiet here; many people to talk to and even though the majority of conversation is whale-talk, one must get used to is when one is among whalers. We have a rather pleasant time in the evenings “in the bosom of our family”. The young lady entertains us with lovely music, Mr. Wilson also plays and sings a since everyone must contribute to the entertainment I have also offered some songs. Wilberg plays the violin but he will not let anyone hear him play before he has gotten strings for his violin delivered from Buenos Aires. At the table it is always the manager himself who plays first fiddle and leads the conversation. He talks about everything between heaven and earth but naturally mostly whale-talk. Such a man has experienced a lot and he has much to tell and he is often very interesting to listen to. But one senses instantly that he is used to lead and rule and sometimes his person is a tad to much in the foreground. Nonetheless he has a good heart and wants the best for his people in all regards.

As long as there are so many housed here in “the palace”, the secretary Wilberg and I share a room. He is a both nice, cleanly and good guy so we are getting along well and have an excellent time together. Excessive luxury and comfort is not to be found in the rooms but one cannot expect this in South Georgia. I have hung my clothes on pegs on the wall and the rest of my things are in my suitcases for now, until more space frees up when the former secretary leaves. Then when the lady and the young lady leave, I will get my own room facing the sea. Soon another story will also be added to the house and then there will be plenty of room. It will be built fully on the beach  and then put on the house fairly quickly. The joiner has already started building. Later the English magistrate will get his own house down from Strømmen Trævarefabrik (Strømmen Wood Plant). Then I presume I will move into his two small but neat rooms. Now he and the doctor live in a small house next to ‘the palace’.”

Pastor Kristen Løken

Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene

C.A.P. 10 øre token coin. Larsen introduced a company wide currency to be used for trade in Grytviken. This stopped the workers from buying prohibited items off visiting ships. The tokens were also known as monkey money. Source: South Georgia Museum 2002.6.344

Larsen was a figure with immense power in Grytviken. His efforts to enrich the lives of his workers there were also attempts to occupy them in ways he deemed productive. Larsen was strongly opposed to workers drinking alcohol in Grytviken. He banned drinking for the workers and lobbied fervently with the governor of the Falklands to introduce checks of vessels bound for South Georgia to ensure that alcohol was not brought to the island.

 

Inside the manager’s Villa ‘the palace’

Larsen ruled from the manager’s villa which Pastor Løken called ‘the palace’ (slottet). This was also home to his wife and daughters when the visited the island. The family was the core of the Grytviken aristocracy which also included the pastor, the doctor, Larsen’s secretary, and the magistrate when he was first appointed. The first magistrate James Innes Wilson later moved across the bay to King Edward Point. There was some mixing between the ‘high society’ and the workers. For instance, pastor Løken was in a singing group with some workers. However, mostly the Grytviken aristocracy kept to themselves spending their time going on picnics and exploring the island on hikes and ski trips. They could also enjoy alcohol in the evenings in the palace.

The Magistrate's Villa at King Edward Point with Grytviken across the bay behind.

Edward Beveridge Binnie (born 8 October 1884 in Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, died 27 June 1956 in Sandar) was a magistrate of South Georgia from 20 October 1914 to 1 April 1927. Source: Source: Thomas Edward Binnie Jr.

Family picnic, South Georgia, 1911-1912
Back L-R: C. A. Larsen; Unknown; Captain Victor Esbensen
Front L-R: Hans Wold (Larsen’s secretary); Andrine Larsen; Elvina (Wina) Larsen (wife of Victor and C. A. Larsen’s eldest daughter); Margit Larsen. The St Bernard dog was a gift to Captain Larsen from Ole Wegger, the proprietor of a shipyard in Norway who had been contracted to build the station’s whale catchers. Source: Thomas Edward Binnie Jr.

Magistrate's house. Source: Thomas Edward Binnie Jr.

Larsen was highly dedicated to his life in South Georgia. After the Swedish-Norwegian union broke up on 1905, he lost a great deal of his loyalty to Norway and renounced his citizenship. He was stateless for five years until 1910 when he applied, successfully, for British citizenship with the South Georgia Magistrate.

The Magistrate’s presence in Grytviken put Larsen at the heart of South Georgia politics even after government administration was moved to King Edward Point. Government workers and their families continued to rely on the more established infrastructure in Grytviken for some time after the move.

Larsen often hosted visitors in the Villa and supplied expeditions moving through South Georgia on their way to Antarctica. For instance, Wilhelm Filchner’s Second German South Polar Expedition (1911-2) stopped in Grytviken for supplies. The medical officer of this expedition, Dr Ludwig Kohl, stayed in South Georgia while recovering from appendicitis. While he was in recovery, he met Larsen’s daughter Margit who was staying on the island at the time. They later married and returned to South Georgia in 1929 to film <i>Roah Roah (or Antarctica)</i> which became the first commercial film made on South Georgia.

"My reasons for this application are that I have given up my Norwegian citizen’s rights and I have resided here since I started whaling in this colony on 16th November 1904 and have no reason to be of any other citizenship than British, as I have had and intend to have residence here for a long time to come.”

Carl A Larsen, upon taking his oath of citizenship

Wilson handing out awards by the Manager's Villa. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.

In December 1910, Larsen travelled to the Falklands to take his citizenship oath, following which he became, in his own eyes, “the first resident of South Georgia and the Falkland Islands Dependencies”.

Ships carrying whale oil out of South Georgia also brought post and other supplies to station. The pastor Kresten Løken addressed the frequency of post leaving and arriving to the island in a letter home, dated 11th July 1912. Translated by Bodil Malmose:

”When the next post will leave here is at present impossible to say but it will probably be a while as there is no cargo for the boats. Presumably it will be some time at the end of September or the first half of October. You should in any case be prepared that it could be up to 7 or 8 weeks until your hear from me again. ‘Harpon’ is not going to Europe after all. It is up in Buenos Aires and will go between there and here for some time now that Cachalote has come up. But since ‘Harpon’ is a rather big boat it will take some time before it gets cargo, especially as it will still be some time before the catching begins. When you receive this letter you should therefore not expect a letter for a while.”

Grytviken, 1905. Source: Nasjonalbiblioteket, Oslo

Family affair

Larsen was highly dedicated to his manager position at Grytviken. The bulk of his time in South Georgia’s spent in this role. He involved his family in his work as much as he could. Several of his male relatives formed part of the party that founded the whaling station. In 1905, he brought his wife, their seven living children and their maid Ellen Johansen to visit South Georgia. They were the first women and children on the island. His family continued to visit periodically, staying for months at a time throughout his time as station manager. Larsen’s approach to his time in South Georgia introduced a new way of living on the island. The most permanent residents of the island, the magistrates and government workers, also brought their families to stay with them. South Georgia was not only a place of barracks and but also homes and families.

 

Anne-Marie Sørlle on the ship Undine 1914. Stromness manager Erik Sørlle also brought his wife and children to the island. Source: Vestfoldmuseenes mediearkiv – Sandefjordmuseene.

There are 12 recorded births on South Georgia. Solveig Jacobsen was the first. She was the daughter of C. A. Larsen’s nephew, Fridthjof Jacobsen, then Undermanager and later Manager of the whaling station. She was christened in the Whalers’ Church on the day it was consecrated, Christmas Day 1913.

While Larsen, management and the magistrate could house their families in South Georgia, the workers could not. As the whaling industry grew in South Georgia, hundreds of families in Norway, Shetland and Scotland felt the effects. Each winter saw a mass migration of fathers and sons leaving for the good wages offered in the whaling.  Their return often had both economic and social effects. In one parish near Sandefjord a priest performed 33 christenings and 18 weddings in one day.

Larsen’s youngest son Thorbjörn (1904-1964) sitting in the boat, while parents CA and Andrine watch him from the shore in Grytviken. Source: Eva Marie Widmark Archive.

The break

The initial seasons in Grytviken had yielded good results and the company had grown towards the early 1910s. However, from 1912 business proved increasingly challenging. Grytviken was hit by an epidemic of typhus in mid-1912 causing the death of nine workers. Later in the 1912-13 season, the whaling station workers attempted to unionise, and Larsen had the union leaders deported. Despite being an advocate for his workers’ rights and conditions, he was staunchly anti-union.

 

Plano de la Estacion Ballenera de la Compañia Argentina de Pesca en South Georgia by C.A. Larsen Larsen’s vision of the Grytviken whaling station was ambitious. His ideas for the site were often a point of conflict between him and the board of Pesca. The company was reluctant to pay the expense of realising Larsen’s full vision. They were more focused on keeping expenses low than modernising the factory. Source: South Georgia Museum 2012.20

Despite Larsen renewing his contract with Pesca again in 1912, there was much tension between him and the board. The price of whale oil was dropping and the company was under financial pressure. Management at Pesca doubted Larsen’s loyalty to the company and suspected that he was more devoted to his family and Norway. From the founding of Pesca, Larsen had insisted on supplies and staff being brought from Norway. This presented a great expense to the company. Larsen also became very involved in the Ocean Whaling Company of Larvik, investing 25,000 kroner when it was founded in 1909 and helping his brother Lauritz get the manager role in their shore station in New Fortuna Bay, South Georgia. After the company was established, Larsen continued to assist them by letting their ships undergo maintenance in the Grytviken slips and shipping supplies for their station on Pesca ships. In 1911 Larsen also helped his brother Magnus apply for a license to open a new station on South Georgia. Larsen also shared resources like station doctors and the pastor between the whaling stations on the island. It seems he took his South Georgia citizenship status seriously and put this above loyalty to Pesca.

Grytviken in the 1920s.

In 1913 Larsen was forced to leave South Georgia due to health issues. In his absence, the Pesca board refused to pay costs for the new church in Grytviken and would not cover the cost of Pastor Løken’s salary. Both were covered out of pocket by Larsen. The company was struggling financially and the board blamed Larsen. They decided to restrict further expenditures and replaced Larsen’s trusted secretary Hans Wold with one of the subordinates of the Pesca President in 1914. This proved to be one step too far for Larsen. He resigned his position in July 1914 and sailed to Buenos Aires to settle his affairs and thereby missed meeting South Georgia’s other great hero, Sir Ernest Shackleton, by a few months.

Larsen was replaced by his nephew Fridthjof Jacobsen. He was present when Ernest Shackleton’s Imperial Trans-Atlantic Expedition with the Endurance visited Grytviken just four months later. During his time in South Georgia, Larsen and his family became inextricably linked with South Georgia life and business. Family members of Larsen would continue to be involved in South Georgia whaling until its end in the 1960s.

Prof Dr Ludwig Kohl-Larsen and Margit Larsen in their home near Lake Constance (Bodensee) in Germany in 1931. Source: South Georgia Newsletter September 2013.

The Kohl-Larsen Expedition (1928-1929)

Ludwig Kohl-Larsen (born Ludwig Kohl) was a German physician, amateur anthropologist and explorer. In 1911, he travelled as ship’s doctor with Wilhelm Filcher to Antarctica, but did not participate in the expedition to the Weddell Sea due to appendicitis. At South Georgia he cured himself and met his wife, the daughter of Carl Anton Larsen.

The Kohl-Larsen Expedition (1928-1929) set out to study the recent glaciation of South Georgia. Maps of inland areas were drawn for the first time, biological studies and collections were made along with geological observations.

The expedition was accompanied by Albert Benitz who prepared the first commercial cinematographic film of the island. This is an edited sequence of footage from their full film which captured the expedition activities, whaling and the wildlife on island.

Please note this film contains footage of whaling activities.